Saturday, June 25, 2011
Beginnings from the bush
This was the first weekend to attempt some work on Shan Skailyn. Altogether about 3 hours worth. I'm using a bunch of lumber that has been here since we originally built our house back in 2004. It's all rough cut stuff and looks all moldy and mildewy from years of sitting under the house on a storage rack. So the first step needed is to plane it down. Found a couple pieces of what is called 'ton' (sounds like 'tone' in Pidgin English - the national trade language of Papua New Guinea). One thing I've learned about ton is that it's very prone to dry rot. 25 minutes of planing these pieces reveals that they are totally unusable; full of dry rot. Might make some good firewood or something.
I actually have a few pieces of teak, but not enough to use for the gunwales as I would have wanted. Probably a good thing because that stuff gums up my saw and planer blades pretty bad.
So I dug through and found some other lumber that might work for the gunwales. Fairly heavy and tight grained stuff. NO DRY ROT!!! In Pidgin they call it 'galip' (pronounced 'ga-leep'). Not sure what we know it to be in English. It's a bit like mahogany though. I wonder if it's the same. It seems too heavy and a fair bit more dense. Anyone out there happen to know what this might be? It would be nice to know. Gary D., you seem to have had some experience with PNG lumber. If you're reading this, any idea what 'galip' wood is? It grows on the coast. It has nuts that the people eat.
Anyway, I planed it down and cut all the pieces for the gunwales, which I want to be a stronger variety of wood than the chines. As far as the chines are concerned, I'm hoping to cut those maybe next weekend.
Other than that, I spent a bit of time sharpening my hand planes, organizing my shop a bit in preparation for this 'little' weekend hobby, and chatted with some of my Mibu friends that were in the area and wanting to hang out a bit. I almost always stop work to spend time chatting with them!
WIth just about 20 minutes left available to work, I decided I'd start planing the edges of my plywood, which I had only rough cut when we were out in town recently. I had cut all the matching pieces at the same time so that they matched exactly. Did the same with the edge planing, checking with a combo square as I went along. Since any mismatches will come together creating a warped hull, perfection is important here more than almost anywhere else.
Oh yeah... also found out that my bamboo has been cut (I hired a friend who wanted a little work) and is currently soaking in the river. Should be just a matter of weeks before I see it and can judge whether or not it will work for me.
In this picture, you see the four pieces of 6mm plywood that will make up the sides of the two end sections of Gary's Wa'apa design. In the foreground is what will eventually be the stern and the bow of the canoe. I've put a screw through each end of all four pieces to hold them together so I can plane all four edges to a perfect match.
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Wednesday, June 22, 2011
Bamboo
I've heard that the outer layer of bamboo resists adherence to it. Any thoughts out there?
Found some folks that may know... the Texas Bamboo Society (Do they grow bamboo in Texas???). They're saying definitely do not take that outer layer off, but didn't say why. All the bamboo that they are knowledgeable about (they're not sure about the varieties available to me here in Papua New Guinea) have a waxy substance on the surface. So when you varnish, it ends up scaling off over time. They do recommend heat curing. Hmmm. I'll have to experiment. I'll also have to try acetone and see what that does for adhesion. Wouldn't that break down the oils/waxes pretty well?
Hoping to get a couple spars soaking submerged in water for a few weeks to de-starch the things here soon.
Any thoughts or advice out there about just how to treat my bamboo would be much appreciated. Surely there's some experienced users out there? Anyone have any luck with their coatings lasting a long time? Did you scrape? Sand? Remove much of the nodes? Leave them?
FYI, the kind of bamboo available to me that seems most likely to do the trick is a very thick walled bamboo that the Mibu people call 'bovat'. Down at the base it's so thick walled that there is nearly no opening at all. It dries lightweight and is extremely strong. A 1-1/2" dia piece with a wall thickness of maybe 1/4" spanning 6 feet will hold my body weight (190 lbs) and then some with only about an inch of flex. I'm planning on using Gary's recommended size (around 3 inch dia) and going for thicker walled stuff.
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
My coast... Rai Coast
Anyway, I took the opportunity to photograph the longest length of the coast (which is called 'Rai Coast') which I'm hoping to sail one day, if and when I can finish building Shan Skailyn.
BTW, where my family and I live is out toward the horizon in the first picture. From the coast out there, go up up up into the steep mountains. We're so high up in the mountains that our weather is actually cool most of the time. Imagine that in a country known for it's HOT tropical climate. It's total bush out there too. No roads. No airstrips. Only way in our out is by helicopter or a loooooong treacherous hike! That's where most of Shan Skailyn's construction is going to happen over the next year or so.
The last picture is typical of the many islands and tons of coral found in these crystal blue waters around Madang, Papua New Guinea. Often times the coral is just a couple feet under the surface of the water, full of color and life. Sweet! Can't wait to be cruising these areas in my own sailing outrigger someday!
Sunday, June 12, 2011
Tryin' Trad
As we went out along the coast and passed a couple villages, as would be expected, the people there seem pleased (and much more conversational) when seeing us expats cruising along in one of their traditional canoes. Reminds me that while Shan Skailyn's design may not have the traditional Papua New Guinea coastal look, I want to be sure to add as many elements to her design that people here can relate to. Whether it be her art, a bit of carving, and even maximizing the use of obviously local materials, it all adds up to the total of something that, rather than alienating, will actually connect with the local culture.
Maybe I can ask one of my Mibu friends to carve one of his distinct patterns along the gunwale. Lots of potential options to consider.
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
All cut up
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Work commences!
Monday, June 6, 2011
Out for a spin on a homemade canoe
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Gearing up
We're out in Madang now for a couple weeks. I've been shopping around in town mainly for marine plywood. Nobody has it. Agmark said they could order it from Lae. Placed the order. Then a couple days later said that even out of Lae they're not going to be able to get it. Now having to look at other options. Either what they call 'proof' ply or 'common' ply. The common stuff looks nice. The 6mm sheets are 5 ply. Both sides of the ply are nice and clean. But they say it will fall apart if exposed too much to water. Then their 'proof' ply is said to be for exterior applications with some exposure to moisture. Bad thing about this ply wood is that it's only 3 ply. And even worse, it's got a super thick middle ply with very thin outer ply. Any thoughts out there about what I should choose between these two?
Also bought some Akzo Nobel Epiglass epoxy resin. Whew! That was the expensive part of the boat. I'm looking for advice/thoughts regarding the possibility of thinning the epoxy (with acetone cause it's cheap) and then giving all the plywood a good once over so it soaks into the wood and dries, possibly making it stand up better to moisture in the future. Planning on glassing the bottom and then coating the rest of the hull with un-thinned epoxy before painting.
Got some 6oz fiberglass cloth, SS blocks, rope, etc on the way from the states in our co-workers' luggage. They'll be arriving in country on the 9th here.
Oh yeah. I found a large 24'x18' polytarp in town too. It's kind of a strange material, but seems just as strong as the recommended reinforced stuff. Interesting thing about this polytarp material is that it's not woven. It's all one solid piece. Doesn't stretch like the weaker, woven stuff. Seems about the same stretchiness as the reinforced stuff. Hoping it will work for my sail. It's got UV protection. There are no seams on it, just one big piece of tarp. So I'm thinking it ought to work well. But what do I know. I've never sailed before. Just going on comparing to the reinforced stuff.
So gearing up here... Sure would be good to get thoughts on anything here, especially that plywood and epoxy. Gotta make a final decision on that one here soon.